Reviewed by Warren M. Bobrow
Elegance at Bareli’s in
Secaucus emanates from things like tables with leather armchairs, red-patterned
carpet, and a grand piano next to the bar, producing cocktail music Thursdays
through Saturdays. It’s classy, if a bit dated, but that’s of no concern to
Bareli
’s
large and loyal following, who come back for the
no-ticket valet, the crisp service, and the reliable Italian cooking, and maybe
for the luxe sensation of pushing back an armchair on casters after a
satisfying meal.
Located on eastbound Route 3 about two miles east of New Meadowlands Stadium,
Bareli
’s
at lunch is a magnet for area business people, bankers, lawyers, and
politicians. At the door, customers are likely to be welcomed by one of the
partners, who have owned the restaurant (opened in 1986) since 2000—Bob Devita,
the operating partner; Brent Rudnick, a former owner of the Harrison Baking
Company (home of Pechter’s baked goods); and Vincent Ponte, an owner of F. Illi
Ponte Ristorante in
Manhattan
. An owner on the premises is always a good sign.
Since 2006, Chef Robb Welch, 43, has reinvigorated and modernized
Bareli
’s
red sauce fare, particularly with daily specials such as braised red snapper in
fra diavalo sauce with wilted spinach, squid ink
risotto with grilled calamari, and braised pork shank with pasta and beans.
Born in
Pat
erson
and raised in
Garfield
, he graduated from the
Academy
of
Culinary Arts
in Mays Landing and has cooked his way around the
state. “People often wonder where I get my love of Italian cuisine,” he says. The answer? His mother’s side is “100 percent Sicilian.”
One thing you notice on the table is fine stemware, which fits hand-in-glove
with
Bareli
’s wine list, a winner of Wine Spectator’s Award of
Excellence.
Bareli
’s staff knows the wines well and what dishes they
complement.
Welch loves to cook lesser-known meats such as rabbit, buffalo, and frog’s
legs. He does a commendable rabbit (coniglio) Provençal-style: braised until
fork tender, fragrant with creamy garlic, tomato concassé and fresh oregano. He
grills lightly marbled, grass-fed buffalo loins and scatters sautéed wild
mushrooms on top for an earthy finish. He sautés frog’s legs until crispy and
serves them with a light sauce of chopped fresh
garlic, white wine, and sweet butter. The scent of the garlic and wine is
heady. Will anyone notice if you eat these delicious morsels with your hands? I
did, and suddenly a fingerbowl materialized at my table.
I like the attention to detail at
Bareli
’s. Bread is
served hot and crusty. Sauce on the side and other special requests are not a
problem. “If we have the ingredients and the time is available,” says Welch,
“we will try to prepare a customer’s special order, even something off the
menu.”
Pastas are generous and not drenched in sauce. Rigatoni norcima combines sliced
sausage with fennel and fried garlic and frizzled onions. Cavatelli alla rucola
boasts the peppery snap of barely wilted arugula, along with diced sautéed
tomatoes, basil, and roasted peppers. Delicate ravioli di granche are stuffed
with crabmeat and served with a light pink sauce that allows the delicate
flavor of the crabmeat to shine through.
Roasted wild Atlantic salmon is one of several fish-of-the-day options recited
with their prices. Simple and delicious, it was served with a mound of sautéed
spinach, caramelized garlic, and a wedge of fresh lemon.
Several worthy preparations of veal are offered. My favorite was the costeletta
alla valdostana, a flavor-packed double-cut chop
glazed with sherry and crowned with wild mushrooms and, for a sharp
counterpoint, stuffed with prosciutto and shaved aged Fontina. The pounded veal
Milanese is a classic, crisply sautéed and topped with an arugula salad.
Desserts, all made in house, include tiramisú dripping with espresso-flavored
liqueur. You’ll want to eat it with a spoon rather than a fork.
Review by
Grumpy Gourmet
Secaucus, NJ Restaurant
If you'd like to impress clients or friends from out of town you will do well to entertain them at Bareli's (Secaucus, NJ). You will be pleased with the great ambiance, and we found the service to be impeccable.
The extensive wine list covers a wide variety of prices, and even has several acceptable labels under $30. Iona selected a nice merlot at $45. She was pleased when the waiter avoided the annoying practice in many restaurants whereby Iona asks for the wine list, Iona selects the wine, Iona orders the wine, then the server pours the first taste into Dan's glass for him to approve. (In the same vein, Dan was pleased that when the check came at the end of the meal, it was placed half-way between the two of us with no presumption as to who would pick it up. This apparently went unnoticed by Iona).
